At our age, Andy and I vacation not to sit and veg, but to see and learn. We broke up the long flight from PDX to Finland with a two-night stopover in Iceland, one of my favorite places on the planet. From Reykjavik, we flew to Helsinki to begin our tour of Finland, with excursions to Russia and Estonia. It was there that we came face-to-face with history. We were in Finland to experience medieval castles, meet Europe’s oldest indigenous people—the Sami—and we wanted to see a